Silk Weaving Tour In Varanasi

Historical accounts trace the origin of Banarasi silks to around the 16th and early 17th century, when many weavers and merchants immigrated from the country’s western region of Gujarat, bringing the technique of “warp and weft” with them. (“Warp” refers to the longitudinal threads that are held vertically on the loom and lifted up; “weft” refers to the latitudinal threads, which are placed in a shuttle.) When the Gujaratis arrived in Varanasi, their craftsmanship and quality of silks attracted the attention and patronage of Mughal rulers, a ruling empire in premodern South Asia from the 16th century up until the 19th century, who later popularized the clothing. Soon, silks became synonymous with luxury and a staple in ceremonies and major occasions like weddings. Today, pieces are often passed down as heirlooms.

But in the past few decades, much to the despondency of local artisans, many in this trade have turned to machine-operated power looms, squeezing handloom weavers out of business. These fears are compounded by the threat of cheaper, mass-produced artificial silk saris and synthetic Chinese yarn replacing the time-tested pure silk and zari (threads made from gold or silver wiring, usually embroidered into Banarasi saris). Using a machine, one can make three to four saris a day; by hand, a sari can take anywhere from a week to several months, depending on the intricacy and level of detail in the embroidery.